Running an eatery successfully for 18 years in the heart of Khon Kaen Province takes perseverance and a dash of good luck, says Wanida Khunkitti, the owner of Kai Yang Rodviset, a restaurant specialising in northeastern delicacies.
In her mid-40s, Wanida entered the restaurant business with very little experience. What she had however going for her at the time was a burning passion to create a unique style of Isan cuisine. The hands-on entrepreneur recruited some of the most experienced cooks from nearby village to do just that.
"My elderly cooks are housewives who bring to my restaurants recipes that have been passed down many generations. What I have done is modifying them to match the tastes of our customers."
The Northeast might not be a popular leisure destination, says Wanida, but she hopes the local cuisine will help draw attention to the region. She admitted that most out-of-towners use Khon Kaen as a gateway to other more interesting spots in neighbouring provinces.
"Each of our dishes has an interesting history that I enjoy relating to our guests. Isan food is popular around the country because it is healthy and not easy to emulate."
Would you say the lion's share of your success is due to your talented team of cooks?
- Definitely. They have been the backbone of our success through the years. Most of them are in their late 50s and some even in early 60s. Their contribution has been very much appreciated by not just our customers but also me. We work on the taste of each dish together, so it's a joint effort.
Being elderly they are also highly responsible, so all I have to do is oversee the daily activities in the kitchen. I would like to add that our success also has to do with consistency in quality and taste of our food.
How do your dishes stand apart in terms of taste and quality?
- We base our dishes on herbs and healthy ingredients, so our taste is unique. For example some Isan dishes require use certain ingredients that don't appeal to every taste, so in such cases we replace it with something that doesn't just give it a good flavour but is also healthy to the person who consumes it.
We serve original recipes. We put a lot of emphasis on catering to the taste buds of our guests, many of whom are vegetarian. On quality, I would like to say that I personally supervise what is used in each dish.
How much of an impact have your travelling experiences had on your decision to start an Isan restaurant?
- I would say a great deal. I've done a fair share of travelling to understand how unique and exotic cuisines from different parts of the world can be. I started the restaurant because I love the taste of Isan food.
When did you get interested in Isan food?
- I am quite familiar with Isan food as a matter of fact because I was born here (Khon Kaen). However, I became interested in Isan food while visiting my home town of Khao Suan Kwang.
Tell us what makes Kai Yang Rodviset special.
If you are looking for good and clean Isan food, my restaurant fits the bill perfectly. Unlike other eateries around here, my restaurant is trendy and more hygiene. Our prices are also not exorbitantly high for the quality and taste we offer.
Tell our readers about three of your favourite dishes in the menu.
First of all, I am fond of our kai yang (grilled chicken) which is our specialty. I also like somtam (papaya salad) and our jumba (dessert). The papaya salad and grilled chicken usually come together. There are many kinds of papaya salads, such as somtam pladak (anchovy), somtam poo (crab) and somtam Thai etc, which are all my favourites.
What inspires your work?
I have a son who really likes kai yang. As a result, I wanted to make a clean and high quality restaurant for him. I wanted an Isan restaurant which has many delicious things to eat and everyone likes it. I think I have succeeded in doing just that.
How have you retained the quality of your food through the years ? zEvery dish in my restaurant is made from the same kitchen where my family meals are prepared. Most customers can see the kitchen. Hygiene is a top priority. All dishes are prepared in front of our customers. I'm serious about hygiene. Our suppliers are certified by the Department of Livestock.
If you were given a week to travel to any part of the world to taste the food in that country, where would you go and how would you spend your time?
A visit to Mexico to taste their cuisine would be something I would fancy doing. I would probably like to cook one of our Isan dishes at an eatery by using Mexican ingredients, with lots of fruit and vegetable. If the taste catches on, I might set up a new menu or better still open a new restaurant serving Isan-Mexican cuisine. Wow! That would be a first.
Where do you see the future of Isan cuisine heading?
Nowadays, many people are looking for healthy food. Isan food should be among their choice because most of the ingredients are herbs that are available naturally.
Emerging trends could include Isan dishes being included in menus at the Four Seasons Restaurant in London where guests can order roasted duck, and when people visit our restaurant - kai yang or Khon Kaen fried noodles could be their first choice.
If you wish to contact the writer, email to yvonneb@bangkokpost.co.th.
http://www.bangkokpost.com/130907_Horizons/13Sep2007_hori07.php
